Tucked in a quaint cottage
in the suburbs of Louisiana's capital city, Maison Lacour is an intimate and
special discovery for food lovers.
The demi-glace that graces both the venison tournedos and the
steak au poivre is created on site, as is the mayonnaise that finds its way to
the cream dressings on the seafood salad. Whole tenderloins of beef and
lamb are trimmed by the chefs in order to insure the cuts for their dishes are
perfect. Loaves of French bread are baked fresh each day, and the
desserts--including three luscious ice creams--are made by hand. Indeed,
everything at this classic French restaurant--with the small exception of puff
pastry--is homemade, no small affair in a time when the myths about restaurant
kitchen magic are routinely debunked.
The origins of this magnificent obsession can be traced to
the personal experience of Maison Lacour's chef/co-owner Jacqueline Gréaud, who
founded the restaurant in 1986. As a small child, Jacqueline moved with
her family from their home in China to Paris, where her father made a point of
exposing her to the finest foods and wines. When she was ten years old, he
gave her a comprehensive French cookbook, which the Gréauds still use today and
refer to as "the bible." Her exposure paid off.
Later, she studied at Le Cordon Bleu, where she learned the skills that led to
her life as a restaurateur with husband John.
The Gréauds are joined in the kitchen by their daughter Eva
and her husband, Chef Michael Jetty. Jetty is now the front man in the
kitchen, and John Gréaud and Eva host and run the front of the
restaurant. Jetty joined the family when, eager to learn more about the
business, he arranged an apprenticeship at Maison Lacour. The restaurant
had always inspired him and he wanted to learn the Gréauds techniques.
Along the way, he and Eva fell in love. Now, the beaming twosome work
together with her parents, preparing to eventually take over for them.
As an apprentice, Jetty learned a great deal under Jackie's
tutelage. "Son-in-law or not, I had to make it on my own merit, and
her standards are exceptionally high," he reflects. Michael and Eva
reminisced about the days before they married, when a date might have included
him practicing deboning quail or preparing selections for Eva from the Maison
Lacour menu. "She would say, 'it's good, but not as good as my
mom's,'" said Jetty. Back to the drawing board he would go.
When asked what menu items he most enjoys cooking, Michael
Jetty smiles. "Jackie said recently the dishes are like your
children. They're all different, but you love them equally."
Some are intricate and involved, like the stuffed pheasant, which features lots
of separate homemade ingredients and individual steps. Other dishes, like
the scallops, are simple. Jetty believes the secret to such a dish is
cooking it correctly and letting the ingredients, which should be of the highest
quality, speak for themselves. His scallops are sautéed rare and the pan
is deglazed with lemon juice and butter.
"Why would you want to do anything else to something
that's so simple and sexy on its own?" he asks.
A perpetual student and someone for whom cooking seems a true
calling, Jetty often travels across the country to attend classes in various
techniques or asks to follow noteworthy chefs in their kitchens. He is
spiritual about the craft, remarking on the importance of discipline, patience,
and respecting fine equipment, such as the custom-made knives he waited two
years to receive. Further, he appreciates the ceremony of a great meal
with friends and family. Each day, after Jetty has cooked lunch for his
customers, he also prepares a meal for the four family members to enjoy
together.
The only downside to dinner at Maison Lacour is deciding what
to order. The house pâté, escargot, or their own smoked salmon are among
the place's classic French starters. Salads feature enormous lump
crabmeat, which John Gréaud says is never frozen because it will break
apart. Among the favorite entrees are the Pompano en Papillote, a fillet
baked in parchment paper with crabmeat and a light sauce, and John's Favorite,
an impressive trio that includes a béarnaise-topped filet, jumbo lump crabmeat
with hollandaise, and shrimp with garlic butter sauce. You will also find
raspberry duck breast, a cognac-flambéed veal chop, rack of lamb and poached
sweetbreads. For dessert, try Crepes Suzette, Sachertorte or the Clam,
puff pastry in the shape of a clam filled with vanilla ice cream and raspberry
sauce.
In addition to the accolades it receives for its fine menu,
Maison Lacour also deserves credit for its altruism. Since it opened
nearly sixteen years ago, the restaurant has assisted local charitable
organizations through its "Baton Rouge Nights." On Sunday
evenings once per quarter, the restaurant holds a seven-course meal for selected
nonprofit groups such as Volunteers in Public Schools and Miriam's House.
The nonprofits encourage their supporters to attend, and the restaurant gives
one hundred percent of the $60-per-person fee to the charity. Maison
Lacour says more than $245,000 has been raised.
Set in a frame house, Maison Lacour's vibe is homey and
pleasant. There are five separate rooms, making for a quiet and intimate
atmosphere. John Gréaud says the wait staff is well trained and diners
are encouraged to ask questions about the menu or wine selections.
Heart-healthy dishes are designated and there is a significant vegetarian
menu as well. Smoking is prohibited on weekends and reservations are
recommended.
Maggie Hey Richardson has written about food and culture for Gambit Weekly Baton Rouge and South Florida History Magazine. An avid cook and restaurant watcher, she lives in Baton Rouge with her husband, daughter and two dogs, all of whom love to eat.
