Extract from an article written by Food Editor, Tommy Simmons
of The Advocate
Michael Jetty, executive chef at Maison Lacour, was trained in the
classic French culinary tradition, where discipline is the key to learning how
to cook. His favorite knives are custom-made by a skilled craftsman, Robert
Kramer, in Seattle. They are knives that Jetty feels serve as a symbol of his
having reached a certain level of achievement in his culinary career.
Jetty started working in restaurants when he was a student at LSU. His first
breakthrough came, he says, when Mama at Gino’s, the owner’s mother who ran
the kitchen, didn’t kick him out of the kitchen. He was a waiter there and
wanted to learn more about the food and started hanging around in the kitchen to
see how the sauces were cooked.
Later, Jetty went to the back door of John and Jacqueline Gréaud’s classic
French restaurant, Maison Lacour, on North Harrell’s Ferry Road, and asked if
he could apprentice under Cordon Bleu-trained Jacqueline Gréaud to learn French
cooking. The Cordon Bleu method, he says, is based on discipline, discipline,
discipline.
“I learned profound respect for knives. How you treat your knives is
important. It’s considered to be a reflection of the soul and personality of a
chef,” Jetty notes.
The importance of the knives was reinforced when he worked stages (various
preparation stations on the line) at restaurants in New York. Chefs in New York
believe that you must keep your knives clean and sharp, that it’s a basic
laziness if you don’t and that this lack of care will transfer to your
cooking, Jetty says.
Jetty’s personal knives are the handmade carbon steel knives fashioned by
Robert Kramer. “I started with Henckels and after a decade in this business,
working hard and having good things happen, I decided I wanted better knives. I
read about the Kramer knives and contacted him. There is a two-year waiting
list. On one of my jobs in New York, a chef let me hold one of his Kramer
knives. The chef had a reverence for the knife, and I could understand why,”
Jetty says.
Two years later, Kramer contacted him to talk about his knives. The knives that
Kramer made for him are perfectly weighted to his hand, Jetty says. The
handles are made of polished hardwoods, such as thuya burr, ebony, curly maple
and cocobolo.
“I ordered the knives I use most, a boning knife, Oriental vegetable knife
called a usuba knife, a chef’s knife and a paring knife. My favorite is the
usuba,” he says.
The Kramer knives cost about $400 each. The knives are full tang construction,
which means the handle wraps around the blade, which extends the full length of
the knife.
“You wouldn’t start with a knife like this,” Jetty says. “You have to
earn it by working at your profession, improving your technique and skill.”
Jetty began his apprenticeship at Maison Lacour in 1991. He has been executive
chef at the restaurant, which was founded in 1986, since 1997. In a small
restaurant, the chef does everything, Jetty says. “Nothing is made until the
order comes in. You have to be very organized. You have to care about the food.
You have to respect your knives because they are helping you. I keep the knives
clean, sharpened and polished. If I slice a lemon, I pause long enough to wipe
off the knife because I know the acidity can discolor the knife. It’s a
matter of respecting your tools,” he explains.
Jetty stores the knives in the cardboard sleeves they came in, but is in the
process of making poplar wood covers for each knife. “My wife, Eva, who
works with me in the restaurant and happens to be John and Jacqueline’s
daughter, says I treat the knives like jewelry or eggs, and I do,” Jetty
admits.